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Pending Puppy Owners: Puppy Supply List
  • SangmortSangmort
    Posts: 1361
    What are the supplies you should have for when you bring your puppy home for the first time? :)

    Started putting a list together for meself & figured it might serve some use for those of us waiting to get a pup on here. I'm positive I'm missing quite a few things, so let me know what else needs to go on here, or if I messed up something.

    Thanks guys! Hope this is useful.
    ---

    Leads, Collars, & Harnesses
    - Start off with cheap ones as your pup will have chewed them up in no time! [ & quickly grow out of them ] It's advisable to get a few so you always have a back up in case once gets destroyed. You can start walking your pup with a longer lead until he begins learning how to heel properly. After that, you can go to a 6 foot leash, and than eventually progress to 4 feet. You should also use a harness for a young pup so he doesn't hurt his neck if he pulls [ or you pull ] too hard.
    - $4-15 per Collar, $7-20 per Lead, $10-30 per harness

    Tags
    - Even if your pup is microchipped [ which is highly advised ] still get dog tags as an extra bit of security. They're pretty cheap, come in different shapes and designs, and will last longer than the collars will. You can aslo get some that slide onto the collar instead of hanging & constantly jingling. Include at least your phone number & address on the tags.
    - $6-8 per Tag [ price varies by design ]

    Food
    - Try to have about a one month supply of food on hand. If your pup was eating something different at the breeder, buy both the older food and the newer food you want to feed him and slowly transition him. More info on dog food here.
    - $50-60 for a 30-pound bag of 6 Star Premium Kibble.

    Toys!
    - Can't have the pup getting bored. Great for using as a reward, just some fun, & teething. Always supervise your pup while they are playing with a toy. There are as many types of toys as there are dogs, some popular ones include; Kongs, Tug-o-Jug, Rope Toys, & Nylabones. Kongs, Canvas, & Fleece Toys tend to last longer.
    - Prices vary greatly among toys.

    Food & Water Bowl
    - Where you are going to put the pup's food! Ceramic bowls come in many designs, & can be personalized, but they are porous & can hold germs. [ also chip / crack easily ] Plastic scratches pretty easily and can also hold bacteria within the scratches. I've heard stainless steel bowls are the way to go, difficult to scratch, & not porous. Whichever you go with, always make sure you wash the dishes regularly!
    - $5-10 for plastic, $8-30 for ceramic, $8-30 for stainless steel

    Nature's Miracle
    - Or "Get Serious!" Essential for cleaning up accidents your pup may have! Plain old Soap & Water will NOT work, as the pup will still be able to smell where he went and be more likely to soil the same spot again. Nature's Miracle breaks down the smell, stain, & "leftovers" so the pup isn't tempted to pee in that spot again :)
    - $10 for a 24 ounce spray

    Shampoo
    - To keep him clean. Only bathe your Nihon Ken when necessary as bathing strips the coat of it's natural protective oils. Choose a shampoo carefully, take care to look at the ingredients & read reviews. I've heard Earth Bath Products are really good, they are all natural, ph-balanced, no-soap & 100% Biodegradable.
    - $10-15 per bottle

    Brush
    - Even if your pup is going to be groomed professionally, brushing can really help when he's blowing his coat. The Kong Zoom Groom is also recommended.
    - $9-15 for a regular dog brush, $25 for the Furminator

    Treats!
    - Excellent for positive reinforcement & rewarding your pup. Use treats SPARINGLY as most treats aren't as healthy as your pup's regular kibble. Very small Pieces of hot dog & cheese are good as an extra-special reward. Bits of peanut butter do well too. If you want some smaller, healthy, treats for training, Zuke's have been most recommended to me.
    - $5-20 for a bag depending on size / flavor / type

    Exercise Pen
    - I'm sure any of the forum members will tell you that this was their best investment. A great way to monitor your pup without crating him or letting him roam free to chew on legs, chairs, & cables. Think of it as a "puppy play pen." While not necessary, definitely worth the money.
    - $45-70 depending on the height of the pen needed

    Crate
    - Wire or Plastic. Not required, but highly recommended. Crate training is the best thing you can do for your pup, even if you don't intend on crating him when he's older. A crate acts like a dog's "den" or "room." Getting your pup use to a crate when they're young can also help for when you need to have them travel later on in life. Crating is also said to be the most effective way to potty-train.
    - $45-120 for a wire crate depending on size, $60-110 for a plastic crate depending on size

    Bed
    - Great place for your pup to nap, relax, or just spend the day lazying about. Try to get the ones that can easily by cleaned.
    - Prices vary greatly from size to size & brand to brand

    Places to Purchase Supplies:
    - Amazon
    - SitStay
    - PetCo
    - TerrificPets
    - PetFoodDirect

    *All prices listed USD
    **All prices were taken from websites listed above

    ---
    I'm not going to lie, I've started buying some non-perishables already :) lol~
  • I was wondering what treats are your dogs all time favorite treat.

    Boo's favorite is merrick lamb lung. I tought him to rollover with them.
    He also loves Buddy Biscuit Soft chews bacon and cheese flavor.

    What do shiba's like? Are they food motivated puppy's?
  • hondruhondru
    Posts: 529
    Hmm... I can't think of anything else. Except I don't actually own any dog shampoo :p. I usually just brush them if they feel dirty. Or, if they're really gross, I rinse them with plain ole water. Although, if they're really, really gross, I do use plain glycerin soap and apple cider vinegar to wash them with. No shampoo, though.
    -Heidi, with Rakka (shikoku) and Sosuke (kai ken)
  • Osy - your collar and lead prices are low! And we didn't have a collar for Tsuki until she was 7 months. Unless I'm the silly gal who spends too much, the collars we use are $11, the harness $19 and the 4 foot lead $12, 6 foot lead $19 (lupine and ruffwear).

    instead of nature's miracle, invest in "get serious", it works so much better IMO.

    toys made from canvas or fleece or any KONG product tend to have a longer shelf life than others.

    dog brush - best for constant, routine care is anything similar to Kong Zoom Groom

    tags - when our dogs got microchipped, it came with a tag that had the chip# imprinted on it. Its not metal (read: loud) and has space on the back to write in your phone number. I like this system much better than metal tags.

    and a dog bed - you'll want one, they'll love one, although we bought probably 4 or 5 over the years and all but 1 were destroyed.

    * * * * * * * *
    Sabrina: 3 of the 5 shibas that I've lived with were (are) food motivated! But its gotta be something worth their time - like real steak or dehydrated rabbit ears or beef lung - something good like that.
    Post edited by tsukitsune at 2008-11-12 12:23:37
  • Osy, that list looks great. I agree with Jen about the dog beds. There are five in this house for the two pups (was six but Joey ate one for breakfast a while back).

    I do disagree with you collar/lead explanation. I think a young puppy should always be walked on a harness. Their small, undeveloped trachea is very sensitive and a collar/leash combination could do some damage. Also, I disagree about not using a flexi lead. When leash training a puppy, its a good idea to start with a flexi lead so they don't feel like the lead means they have no freedom. The 6 and then finally 4 foot leads can come after your puppy gets a bit older and is actually taking real walks with you. I agree that you should start out cheap though. Odds are you puppy will chew his first leash/collar/harness set.
  • I got my first collar/leash/harnesses from www.petedge.com. They are VERY cheap, and similar quality to the PETCO store ones. And since I knew they would be destroyed, it was nice not spending a lot on them.

    Miso went throught 4 collars and 2 leads.
    Sake is on her 2nd Collar and still her 1st harness...we will see how long that lasts though.
  • sunyatasunyata
    Posts: 8414
    One thing that I like would like to add about the tags...

    I had a regular stainless steel tag for Bella until one day, it mysteriously disappeared. So I ordered another one. And two days later, I found out what happened to the old one. She had pulled it off her collar. And had almost done the same to the new one. So I found this awesome tag and ordered it for Bella, and it has been on her collar ever since!

    http://www.boomerangtags.com/page.php?c=collartags&k=h

    They are tags that slide onto the collar and stay there. I now also have one for Nola. They do not get chewed, snagged on things, or jingle. Perfect tags in my opinion. I have them on martingale collars (they snap on, instead of slide on). They are absolutely awesome. I have even converted our vet over to these tags.

    Sorry to sound like a crazy infomercial! :)

    Oh, and a couple of more things to add, although these will come at first vet visit:
    Heartworm preventative (if you live in an area where this is a problem)
    Flea/Tick repellant
    Bella 2Mountains 2Nola 2
    Casey, with Bella and Nola, hanging out in the mountains of Virginia.
    I Wander, I Ride
  • Great tags Casey! I just ordered some for Miso and Sake. I can't stand the jingle jingle of the tags, especially at night!
  • SangmortSangmort
    Posts: 1361
    Ok! Thanks for all the help guys, I will thoroughly update this when I get home :) [ in class now :x ]

    The collar & lead prices I got from petco.com ;) Petsmart has the for the same price too. ~
  • NekopanNekopan
    Posts: 403
    I just wanted to add that it's not that collars get chewed, it's that the pup grows out of them quickly. :)

    I really, really hate Flexi leads. Most people are such jerks with them, letting their dogs be rude and run all over the place.
  • BTW, I completely agree about the flexi leads. They are useful for training a young puppy how to tolerate a leash and for potty breaks. I don't think they should be used for walks beyond three to four months of age for a puppy.
  • CrimsonO2CrimsonO2
    Posts: 1165
    I am of the same opinion with Kyla. Right now I have a 50' cotton web lead, a 20' cotton web lead and a 6' x 5/8" leather lead (kinda hard to destroy). I've found Ichi to be more exploratory when he's on the 20' lead. The downside is I have to constantly wind up slack, but at least I'm constantly aware of how far back and how close he is. I think that flexi-lead is a bit of a crutch (IMHO).

    I don't know if it's out of circumstance, but I haven't thought to put a collar on Ichi yet. I thought it'd be too much to have a collar constantly on as well as a harness for walks so I just put the harness on him when we're going outside. He's naked otherwise.

    Jesse
  • SangmortSangmort
    Posts: 1361
    Whoo! Updated it with all the info you guys put in, thanks so much! :D ~
  • tsukitsune - where do you get rabbit ears? Natures Variety used to make them and Boo loved them however they stopped making them :-(
  • miketmiket
    Posts: 193
    I went over to petsmart to pick up supplies for Remy's arrival on saturday. Looking at your list I see I am pretty much set, so thanks! Anyway, I was looking at the zoom groom while I was there and thought it looked pretty good. For anyone who's used it, would it replace a slicker brush?? How does it perform when the coat is blowing?
  • hummm....

    Towels, and no slip mat and slip noose for for the tub/bath etc.

    Unscented baby wipes come in handy for travel and when dogs have stepped in stuff like salt on sidewalks in winter, sand from the beach or gum and other junk and to prevent them licking it off themselves.

    Snf

    PS: I almost forgot.....baby locks for your cabinets and trash can. If your pup is anything like some of the rescues and my own you will be thankful that you have locks.
    Post edited by StaticNfuzz at 2008-11-12 23:20:09
  • SangmortSangmort
    Posts: 1361
    YES! I was [ somewhat ] helpful :D I'm so envious, I wish I could go out and do nothing but buy supplies. When I made the abobve list I had so much fun adding things to my shopping cart :)cIt took all my energy not to type in my credit card number...*sigh*

    lol

    I'm not too sure about the Kong Zoom Groom, since Jen is the one who recommended it I'm sure she can leave a comment :)~
  • I love the zoom groom, and so do the dogs (massage!!) the hair static clings to it, I even use it on my carpeted stairs to get the hair off that the vacuum leaves behind! It does replace whatever I would have been using for maintenance grooming.

    during coat blowing though - I think the furminator does a great job of getting the chunks out and the zoom groom helps get the stray hairs off and bring the sheen back.

    I highly recommend it.
  • miketmiket
    Posts: 193
    Well maybe I'll give it a try. Thanks!
  • lindsaytlindsayt
    Posts: 4784
    I was at work the other day and again, someone was walking their greyhound with a flexilead which they dropped, it retracted and freaked the dog which bolted, ran home, but in the run tangled the line around his hind legs and toes. At least he was able to get home, because the flexi leads tangle in plants and limbs really easily and can trap a dog too. As a result, he broke his toes, got some serious rope burn and needs an amputation of a toe. For this and other reasons, including that your young dog learns to always have tension on the lead, that they are easily dropped, I would choose a reliable leather lead/harness or puppy martingale if you aren't able to properly/safely use a flexilead."Common sense isn't so common"
  • I've never used a flexi-lead. I find it hard to control and a bit "jerky" for both me and the dog. I perfer the standard lead, it makes me feel more in control.
  • Dont' forget potty training supplies. Puppy pads, pooper scooper and poop bags!
  • Ditto on what Lindsayt has described.

    As heads up….The flexi can be heavy, awkward and hard to control. The cable line can get tangled in debris, fencing and plants. I have assisted folks after they have lost Shibas on flexi when the handle contraption was accidentally dropped. In many cases the dragging of the flexi freaks the dogs out and they run for their lives with the cable and handle clanking behind. On several occasions I know dogs have been hung up on fences, under them, or on limbs. If you can’t find your dog in time after it runs off (sometimes can takes several days to find a run away Shiba), it can be a real detriment to the dog since it leaves them vulnerable to attack or choking if the dog gets in an area where you can not hear them and they are pinned in place not found in time. I personally would not risk using a flexi. A regular leash is your best bet. Also if you go into basic puppy class any good instructor will recommend and require you to use a regular leash for some of the same reasons I have mentioned here.

    Snf
  • okironokiron
    Posts: 735
    Vinegar is cheaper and works just as well as Nature's Miracle IMO.
  • Ok, well, there is apparently some disagreement on the use of flexi-leads. Regardless of whether you use one or not, the important takeaway point for this thread is that young puppies should be started off with long leashes (flexi or fixed). Over time, you can teach them to walk on shorter ones.
  • "Dont' forget potty training supplies. Puppy pads, pooper scooper and poop bags!"

    Has anyone trained there dog for puppy pads? How do you train them to stop using the puppy pads?
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    I think Evan did - if I remember correctly Keigo did not like the switch from puppy pads to the outdoors.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • We only use the puppy pads when we are not home. We trained Sake to go outside, but if we are not home the only okay spot to go was on the puppy pad. So she knows that when we are home she has to go over to the door and give her signal (which happens to be a cute little pee pee dance) that she wants out. Now that she is getting a little bigger and being able to hold it she rather does that than using the pee pee pad. She actualy has had 2 days where I got home from work and there was nothing on the pad which is great!

    I wouldn't ONLY use pee pads. I always started by showing them outside and praising them when she went potty there. She picked up pretty quick :) Smart little shiba.
  • What size crate do you guys use?
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    Offhand (since I'm not at home), I'll say 24x36
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • I started Joey off with a "medium" (24"L X 18"W X 21"H) which he outgrew by the time he was about 6 months old. He now has a "large" (36"L X 24"W X 27"H) which is too big. Since it isn't really for potty training anymore, its just to keep him out of trouble while I'm gone, I don't worry that its too big. There is an "intermediate" size (30"L X 21"W X 24"H) that might be better. Lucy would still fit in a medium, but for the same reasons I've given her a large as well.
  • miketmiket
    Posts: 193
    I have Remy in a 32"L x 22"W x 24"H and it seems to be a good size for him, but as with Dave, it might be a bit big for potty training (which isn't an issue for him).
  • CrimsonO2CrimsonO2
    Posts: 1165
    I am currently using a 36"x24"x26" crate. This is way big for my Shiba right now (15 weeks) but is fine for when he will be full grown. The crates come with a divider panel so that you can limit the space for your dog until they grow into it.

    image

    The only bad thing I have to say about this crate is that the bottom can slide out relatively easily (as many other dog owners will attest to).

    Jesse
  • The one with the divider is a godsend! But I cant tell you the measurements.
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    I'm home and can verify the measurements - it's 36" x 24" x 26" - the bottom will slide out, especially if your shiba is mad at you and want's to get back at you....however, using some quick links, you can make sure that won't happen.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • Bottom sliding out+stomping poop in the carpet=Good times for Jaz!
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    so wrong to bring that up, Rachael.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • CrimsonO2CrimsonO2
    Posts: 1165
    Yet you know I was specifically referring to your ordeal when I mentioned the caveat about these crates, LJ :)

    Jesse
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    I knew, Jesse, but you didn't spell it out like Rach did. I tried to gloss over the infraction.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • LOL. I suppose I shouldn't mention that I was going to post a link to your thread with pictures?!?! :-P
  • CrimsonO2CrimsonO2
    Posts: 1165
    Do it Dave and put her out of her misery. She knew she couldn't hide it as soon as she shared what Jazz did with us. Besides, Jazz can't be perfect all the time:)

    Jesse
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    Since the images and comments were in the big Jazz spam thread, I culled it out for you guys.


    One should never brag about how great one's dog is....

    This is what happened after Jazz was crated and left for two hours. Her normal blanket and bed were being washed and she HAD a pillow. The crate was in a different spot than usual - it was being vacuumed. Keep in mind that she had just been out to do her business and went in to the crate.


    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



    Here's my timeline estimate, based on crate damage and placement.

    1. Bend front end of crate.
    2. Knock loose the metal plate holding plastic tray in.
    3. Kick tray loose.
    4. Venge poop (pellets) and prance them into the carpet.
    5. Rip pillow open and cruch it into venge poop.
    6. Ram self into side of crate and slide it.
    7. Figure most logical place to hide crate until can figure a way out...bathroom. Previously known as the least likely place to ever find Jazz.
    8. Finish shredding pillow.
    9. Act happy to see owner.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • I still laugh every time I read that LJ...it's hysterical...and Jazz looks SO happy about the whole thing!
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    It's definitely funny now, then I was not as amused. I should have videoed how happy she was to see us.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • I <3 Jazz. :-)
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    Uh huh, I hear ya, Dave. She's been uber cuddly the last couple of days - I don't know if it's left over from last week's migraine or not, but everytime I'm at home she wants to be in my lap.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • Maybe she's cold? Its gotten a lot colder this week.
  • ljowen123ljowen123
    Posts: 3105
    Could be.
    LJ - owned by Queen Jazz, a Shiba Inu, Atlanta, GA
    CSC_0144
  • miketmiket
    Posts: 193
    That was the funniest thing I've read in a while....
  • juniejunie
    Posts: 10
    Oh my gosh, and I was just going to "brag" about how Ninja at 8 weeks is doing so well in his crate (I'm using the dividing panel)....guess I better not get too excited just yet!
  • CrimsonO2CrimsonO2
    Posts: 1165
    Hahaha,
    Thanks for being a good sport and drudging that up LJ :). Love the pic because you can see that devilish gleam in her eyes while she smiles and says, "Mama!"

    Jesse

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