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Puppy Temperaments
  • ZenkiZenki
    Posts: 368
    Hi.

    I've been looking for a discussion on different shiba temperaments. Like if you get a litter-dominant shiba puppy, which areas do you really want to focus on? In what ways should you not get dominated by your puppy?

    From oceans of materials out there, these are the things I'm going to watch out for:
    1.) Making the puppy wait/behave properly during mealtimes/playtimes.
    2.) Training the puppy to wait to be let out of their crate or through a door instead of bolting past you once that crate or door opens.
    3.) Loose leash walking which instills to the puppy that you are leading the walk and not the other way around
    4.) Training the puppy not to go up on furniture unless given permission.

    Are these things corrrect? Are there more things i need to pay extra attention to?

    What kind of shiba did you guys get? Which areas did you have to pay extra attention to for training?
    Untitled
    Black, Tan and Awesome
    Instagram: @ShibaZenki

    “Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful.”
    – Ann Landers

    Post edited by Zenki at 2016-11-06 00:06:11
  • LilikoiLilikoi
    Posts: 1115
    There may be other threads that each answer these kinds of questions separately, but I'm not sure. Those all seem like good rules. I don't mind my pup on the furniture, so I didn't teach him to "ask for permission" so to speak. He just jumps up and cuddle and whenever he wants lol.

    I wasn't pretty stubborn with loose leash walking lol. Every time he would pull, I'd stop, wait for him to look at me, then click and treat and keep going. Soon it became natural for him to turn back to me every time the leash started getting tight. I also have him kind of "earn" his food by sitting and waiting. Lately I've started having him "place" on a mat and stay on that mat until I release him. We've been working on more self control / resisting temptation kind of training lately ha. Like when I tell him to stay, now he's learning to stay even when I throw a toy or to stop going for it when I tell him to. I'm always really scared that one day he'all manage to get out and could run into traffic chasing a squirrel or leaf, etc, so I work on a lot of stuff that I hope could prevent disaster if a situation like that occurred, like down from a visual cue at a long distance away. But that's now that he's almost a year old. As a young puppy, I don't think he would've had the focus / stamina to perfect trials of patience like this lol.

    Anyway, as far as his personality from day one, he's very outgoing and friendly. He's not dominant at all, but he is confident. I was told he was the smartest of his litter and "a character" lol. He's very goofy and silly. We had to work a lot on waiting to approach people and manners. He used to be very eager to jump, mouth, pull toward everyone he saw and even scream at them lol. But we had a lot of opportunities to train and he's done great. He's still excited to meet new people and dogs, but he sits and waits for them to come to him, no jumping or mouthing, and won't push the boundaries if another dog doesn't want to interact with him.
  • JuniJuni
    Posts: 1255
    Before I got Juni I was nervous about leash training and separation anxiety. I also planned to teach her to sit before getting her food and not to get on to furniture unless I said ok.
    Juni and one of her sisters were the adventurous ones in the litter, always sneaking away exploring in my breeders garden so you had to run around searching for them.
    She was independent and a princess from day one. She didn't like the feeling of her collar pressing on her throat so leash training wasn't really necessary, she hardly noticed when we left our apartment, she just went straight to sleep, she has never been very interested in food so no need to make her sit before eating and it turned out she wasn't very interested in being on the furniture either when she was younger.

    What I think is important to teach a puppy is handling them so you are able to pick them up, examining, brushing, trim their nails without a problem.

    Eye contact is basic too, and good for building other commands like a stop sign which I also think is important and easier to learn than recall.
  • JuniJuni
    Posts: 1255
    I also like to add that thinking of a puppy as dominant is not helpful at all for building a bond between you and the puppy. It sounds so negative.
    There are puppies that bolder and are more confident than others. Use it to your advantage! You probably have a curious and courageous little dog that is up for any adventure.
  • ZenkiZenki
    Posts: 368
    I don't see it as negative at all. It's just like dealing/managing people at work. You have your drivers, analyticals, amiables, and expressives. You deal/manage them differently. Each one has their strengths and weaknesses. Whatever their type, you can get better cooperation by proper management. And I think same can be applied to puppies. Different training regimen for each temperament. I'm just trying to find what worked for others in training their dominant puppies into a well behaved, well adjusted, sociable adult dog which is what i want for my little Zenki. Hehehe.
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    Black, Tan and Awesome
    Instagram: @ShibaZenki

    “Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful.”
    – Ann Landers

  • JuniJuni
    Posts: 1255
    Well, a lot of people seem to think dogs are dominant when they are aggressive, reactive or resource guarding for example. All pretty negative traits. None of which has anything to do with dominance.
    And also when people talk about dominant dogs they usually think they need to be harder on the dog and be more dominant themselves as in phycical punishments. Which I don't belive in or think is productive.

    Why do you think your puppy is dominant?
  • ZenkiZenki
    Posts: 368
    Well, breeder says he is definitely the dominant one in the litter. So i'm trying to prepare myself what i'm in for. Dominant puppies are outgoing, confident, intelligent, and stubborn. High energy which i'm excited about because i want to be able to run, bike, and hike with him. Breeder also mentioned barn hunting. Now i just need to rent a rat in a cannister for training. Hahahha!
    Untitled
    Black, Tan and Awesome
    Instagram: @ShibaZenki

    “Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful.”
    – Ann Landers

  • JuniJuni
    Posts: 1255
    For me it just sounds so much better and I think it describes someone's personality a lot more if you say that he is outgoing and confident.

    Intelligent and stubborn are given since he is a Shiba...
    Post edited by Juni at 2016-11-07 18:10:54
  • rubyruby
    Posts: 175
    With every dog I've had no matter shy, outgoing or somewhere in between at some point I think it's a good idea to hand feed meals. Make them sit for bites, praise them, teach them their name and at the end pet gently. Shibas need to get used to touch. And they need to know where "the good stuff" comes from. For the timid one this was the only way I could establish eye contact.

    To answer your question I had a very assertive shiba 1st, a timid one 2nd, and an in between one 3rd. I think training all 3 should be done the same way. The difference was mainly in the stages they had. At times it's sort of omg...hold on for dear life cuz they all have moments. It wasn't training them it was training me...to be patient and have a sense of humor.

    So it's interesting your breeder uses the word dominate...
    Check out the dominance theory under advanced search if you get a chance.

    Ian Dunbar's books are all excellent if you like training type books.

    Also agree with Juni about handling. From day 1 handle as much as possible including nail trim, bath and yes teeth. Even when mine had baby teeth I had toothbrush in the mouth to get them used to it. Now nothing is a big deal, no screaming, fussing, etc.

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