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New Puppy Problems: biting, potty training, feeding, leash walking
  • Just got my puppy, she is a little over 7 weeks old, and I have been having a couple problems and was looking for some advice. I have to note first that puppy training classes are unfortunately out of the question because they are prohibitively expensive in Tokyo.

    1. Play Biting
    Recently it has actually started to hurt a little. I've read lot of different strategies for this, and then other people who talk down about these same strategies. So what has actually worked for people on this forum. I feel like I get bitten 95% of the time I interact with my puppy, and it is starting to get really frustrating.

    2. Potty Training
    This just could be because she is still too young to really be potty trained. At the moment if she goes inside, I pick here up and make here look at it and yell no. I try to take her out every one-two hours and give her praise and/or a treat when she goes. That being said, she is still having accidents inside.

    3. Feeding
    The vet I went to see said she should get 30g of food a day, 3 times a day. I have been feeding her at 5am, 11am, and 4pm. But she really gets the munchies in between and at night, and I feel like she could eat at least twice what I've been giving her. What should I do?

    4. Leash Walking
    I don't take her out much because she has only had one of the 3 rabies shots, but when I do she wanted to go every direction except the one I am trying to go in. Treats arent a good enough motivation. What to do?

    This puppy has more attitude then any dog I've ever interacted with. It is starting to get so frustrating. She wont even just sit with me ever, too much energy, too much attitude, she questions literally everything I try to get her to do
    Post edited by curlytails at 2012-12-12 22:40:16
  • kumaDUDEkumaDUDE
    Posts: 1259
    Hello,
    These are from my experience with Kuma:

    1. He still play bites, when he bites too hard I put him on a 30secon time out and free him, when he doesn't bite me and bites his toys instead, I praise him. He only bites me when he's doing his shiba 500 and it's 50/50 on his bite being hard.

    2. Potty training was hit and miss, all because I personally can tell when he needs to potty, but unfortunately I am only home 3days a week. My wife and daughter and my nephew and niece manage to miss his signals.
    First what I do is I took him out about 45min after every meal (I suggested crating him all the time but my wife insisted no), then after he wakes from his nap, I will play with him for 10-15minutes including 3min training and take him out again. I just keep taking him out, maybe 8times a day whenever we spend time together.

    3. Feeding ive always just followed the label and adjusted the amount based on How much he has left over. With his left over kibbles I normally put it in his iq ball for him to play with.

    4. Walking, i just kept walking straight, when Kuma felt the martingale tighten he knows to go the direction I am walking to loosen it.
    I took him to training classes, still do, and puppy socialization. I would suggest you post on Facebook to your friends for their well behaved dogs to socialize with your dog. Kuma was fearful of big dogs until he played with big puppies, now he is willing to chase even the biggest dogs in class.

    Again this is just my experience with my 5mo old shiba, the experience so far is hard but sooo worth it.
  • lindsaytlindsayt
    Posts: 4784
    You expect far far too much from a 7 week old puppy. Toy and micro breeds are notoriously difficult to toilet train (you have a mini Shiba?) I know I mentioned most of this before, so let me repeat myself: micros and toys as puppies, need to be eating constantly to maintain blood sugar. This is why most reputable breeders hold on to them till 12 weeks old. These are issues that a quality puppy class will help with, so I suggest you grin an bear it and pay for the class. Also, search thru older threads on these topics. Lastly, yelling no and putting their face in an accident is equivalent to yelling at an infant for soiling a diaper. Managing the puppy better is the solution.
    "Common sense isn't so common"
    photo c5d87957-61b6-48af-a440-4187cbfc861b_zps88ccdf88.jpg
  • LosechLosech
    Posts: 2516
    I agree with Lindsay 100%
    If you really expect a baby dog to understand all this, then you need a reality check.
    Read through previous threads. There are a lot of them, and they all have good advice on how to successfully train a pup. It will take patience, a lot of it, and kindness. Not anger and frustration.
  • kumaDUDEkumaDUDE
    Posts: 1259
    Oh wow, I never knew that about micro and toy puppies Lindsay, I learn something new in this forum every day!
  • JuniJuni
    Posts: 1219
    Totally agree with lindsay and losech. It is a baby you have, even if it wants to it is not physically in control of its bodily functions yet. So it is up to you to make sure the pup gets to go on potty breaks orten enough. You can't discipline it for something it can't help. And a 7 week puppy walking nicely on a leash? Again, it's a baby -it will hop and skip and run all over the place and that is what they're supposed to do at that age. Think of a small child that can run and play for hours but going for a walk is tedious and monotonous and they will complain immediately that they are tired.
    Biting is how puppies play. All the time. You just have to teach the pup to bite gentler when playing with us non furry creatures. Say ouch and/ or just stop playing is normally enough. I honestly thought the puppy period was hard work but it does pass eventually and you start notice gradual improvements. Good luck!
  • I think I understand about expectations, I'm just worried about messing something up by not catching bad behaviors early on. I have stopped correcting her for pottying inside, and I now take her out every hour on the hour and give her a good treat for pottying outside. That seems to be working pretty well.

    As far as biting goes, I just don't want her to grow up being a biting dog, im just worried.

    As far as weight goes, I ended up not getting the micro or whatever, just one on the smaller size. She is 7 weeks and 1.5kg (3.3lbs), so not ridiculously small or anything. I am going to try spreading her feeding out a bit.

    I guess my question is more when is the apropriate time to start implementing proper training with these things. You guys say dont worry about it because she is a puppy, but I read that "AFTER You Get Your Puppy" book and it talks about how urgent it is to start all this training from the get go.
    Post edited by pnewelljr at 2012-08-11 04:55:27
  • Koji's momKoji's mom
    Posts: 632
    After your you get your puppy / Dr. Dunbar is a great book! and yes, he sounds a tad alarmist and can give you anxiety, but his advice is very good...

    If you have a typical Shiba, she will bite for a long time...you just have to deal with it and not get mad, upset, hurt feelings...if you follow the instructions in that book it will work...but it's a "PROCESS" not going to work overnight at 7 weeks!

    I've said this many times in different threads, Koji bit the hell out of me as a puppy, and he looked mad, and like he wanted to hurt me...I had a hard time listening to people who told me he's "playing" or just how Shibas are etc..so I understand what you're feeling, BUT it's true! at about 8 or 9 months he stopped...(YES, you have a long road ahead :) and he is the biggest sweetie pie now...but it takes a long time and lots of work to bond with most Shibas...

    and if you took your Shiba home before she was ready (8 to 10 weeks) you have extra work to do...do not get mad at the puppy, not her fault...just love her and try to have a sense of humour about it - you will need it! but will be worth it ...She'll live maybe 15 years, but puppy hood is hard, but you knew that getting a Shiba right????
  • JuniJuni
    Posts: 1219
    I forgot to mention the food, if he seems hungry add a bit more and/ or feed more meals. I had to add a meal around 9 pm for awhile because Juni was hungry. Then after a few weeks she didn't want it so we changed the schedule a bit again. But it can be useful to give a little dog biscuit or chewy treat just before bedtime as it calms them down.
    Everything you've written so far seems like perfectly normal puppy behaviour so no need to worry. But do try and find puppy classes it is very useful!
  • TriggerTrigger
    Posts: 72
    Hello @pnewelljr and congratulations for your pup :)

    Trigger was around 7-8lbs at 8 weeks old but I don't really know the trend at this age (and now 20lbs at 6 months old)

    IMO it's never too late to train a dog (plus Shiba Inu are really smart) even if it can takes more times.
    - Your puppy will understand very quickly where she can go to do her business, you just have to redirect her if she goes inside and praise her when she goes outside.
    Regarding training, walk on leash etc I'm not an expert at all, all I can talk about is my experience with Trigger. I have done so far 5 minutes of training per day sometimes while we are playing etc and he perfectly knows how to sit, lay down, stay, wait (for eating a treat or his food) high five, shake, side, roll, poke (lol ok he learned that by himself ahah), bring, leave, drop... and he can do really great on leash (if he pull I just stop walking) but time to time he will go crazy (excited etc and I just try to calm him down by waiting a bit with him even in the street or at the park).
    - Your pup will know if your command is important I think (if I use a command too often just for fun, Trigger will simply stop to do it but if it's important as anytime outside he will do it right away mort of the time)
    - He is still bitting but not hard except when we play "war" but he knows if he hurts me and stop being crazy.
    - I've listen to others members as KumaDUDE, Losech, Lindsayt ... and their advices work really well, I didn't and won't hurt Trigger or yell at him, I simply put him in timeout if needed (2 months without any timeout yeaaah for Trigger lol) or stop playing or ignore him (he totally hates that as he is mom's baby boy... SPOILED).

    Enjoy your pup, create a good bond, learn all day and try new tricks... Love her as much as you can and I think you will see improvement week by week. She also needs time, she is a baby and needs to trust you too...
    Good luck and don't be stressed just enjoy your baby girl :) they grow so fast!!
  • Thanks for the advice guys. I'll try to be thick skinned about the biting haha
  • kayla4554kayla4554
    Posts: 169
    "This puppy has more attitude then any dog I've ever interacted with. It is starting to get so frustrating. She wont even just sit with me ever, too much energy, too much attitude, she questions literally everything I try to get her to do"

    -This phrase not only applies to your Shiba puppy, but just about every Shiba puppy in existence. :) Good luck, it looks like you've been given some good advice!

    kayla and maya <3
  • @pnewelljr Please be more patient with everything. You almost sound like my mother. I take Sonic home every weekend and she expects the absolute perfect dog. I have to keep reiterating the point that he's still an adolescent and will do things like that.

    I've had issues with all of what you've listed. Sonic is now at 5 months and I have all of it under control now. Well, the loose leash walking is still challenging but I'm sure he'll get it soon. I just bought an Easy Walk harness recently and that seems to work pretty well although having it clipped underneath is kind of weird when he goes side to side.
  • janjan
    Posts: 41
    When we first got Bandit at 8 weeks, the first 2-3 weeks was a bit of a living hell for us. He was our first puppy and since we've experienced handling adult Shibas and other dogs, we had expected him to be well behaved too. That quickly went out the window as we soon learned that puppies are like babies, they are curious and have no clue what you want from them. We went through a period where my husband and I have to keep reminding each other that Bandit is a puppy, we need to have 200% more patience for him and actually treat him like a puppy, not an adult dog that is well trained. This helped us get thought the first few weeks and since then it's been smooth sailing, aside from the occasional accidents at my in-law's place which is fully carpeted. We don't really blame him though since the carpet might feel like grass to his paws and we're working on correcting this behaviour.
    See what Bandit's up to from my blog: Shorty&Me
  • So are you guys sure it is ok to just let her play bite with no reprimand? It really is a problem, if I ever introduce her to kinds within 10 seconds she is nipping at them. What am I supposed to do?
  • If you mean letting her bite without using positive punishment, such as a swat, then yes. If you mean just let her do it because she's a puppy, then no. What people are saying is that is that she's not going to stop doing it overnight. It will be a slow process. She may very well keep doing it for months because she's a baby but with consistent redirection she will eventually stop.

    What you should do when she bites is tell her "no" or "ouch" or something and withdraw all your attention. This is negative punishment, or taking away something she wants. Eventually she'll get the idea that biting means no attention and she'll stop. For a more major infraction (such as nipping the face) putting her in time-out may be the answer.

    That said, what you might want to do is work on bite inhibition before you work on teaching her not to bite at all. Basically instead of taking your attention away when she bites at all, instead you only take it away when it hurts. Once she's able to mouth you without hurting you, then you you start doing the same thing whenever her mouth touches you at all. We practiced bite inhibition with our pup until he got his adult teeth just to make sure he stayed gentle and he's got a pretty soft bite, even when he's worked up (not perfect but he's certainly not going to break the skin or bruise anyone even if he's scared or something).

    Edit: With teaching her not to bite you can also simply redirect her onto a toy instead of taking away your attention. This approach has also worked for people. Just stay consistent with whichever method you choose.
    Post edited by notoriousscrat at 2012-08-11 22:24:50
  • JuniJuni
    Posts: 1219
    And if you don't trust her with kids don't let her play with them until she's better with the bite inhibition to prevent any accidents. Or perhaps you know some kids that are used to puppies that can help you train her? You can also teach her and or the kids that she can only bite toys. I had to tell my sister, an adult, to stop playing like she did when Juni was a pup, because she kept agitating her to snap at her hands by waving them in front of her all the time.
  • Koji's momKoji's mom
    Posts: 632
    Don't let her play freely with children till she's older...again, you seem to expect incredible behaviour from a 7 week old puppy..She should still be home with her mother anyway - not out running around with strange children...because you brought her home early you have EVEN more of a responsibility to protect her and go carefully..

    The book you said you had by Dunbar covers sooo much of this stuff...You should seriously read it and do what it says...

    when puppy is around people, get a drag lead, and if she bites, grab it (GENTLY but firmly, no jerking) and walk her away from her victims...put her in expen if she's acting like the crazy puppy she is...

    You have an infant, a pre-mature infant...please remember that...if she bites you, remove your hands! remove your legs!

    Puppies and dogs should not be running free around small children...
  • she wasnt running around, i was holding her and a little girl went to pet her but all she does is bite. Of course the mom wasnt very happy.
  • Also, the book says it is super important to make her a chewtoyaholic, but nothing i am doing works. I bought a bunch of really good stuffable chewtoys, and I put kibble and treats in it, but she shows no interest in chewing them. I dont know what to do, i am worried
  • WendyNCWendyNC
    Posts: 257
    @pnewelljr, did the parent ask permission before allowing the child to approach the puppy? Did you give that permission? If not, the situation was not controlled and your puppy was just being a puppy.
  • rubyruby
    Posts: 175
    Another thing- don't confine your puppy to a situation where they feel trapped when they aren't socialized to children. If they go to touch them and don't have a way out of course the impulse would be to bite. I give mine the option. If someone asks I don't pick mine up. I tell the stranger it is up to my dog. If she backs up I say no thanks maybe next time. And about the toys. She may not know how to get the kibble out. Try peanut butter. Freeze it with kibble in it. Eventually you can do it without the peanut butter if you want.
  • OK, I mean, its more just frustrating that in every situation we are in she bites. Even when people walk up to her on the street she walks up wagging her tail, and then she starts to bite on them.
  • rubyruby
    Posts: 175
    Sounds normal. Try to be patient. This will go on for a long time. To me that behavior is not biting. It is mouthing. I don't know if it matters but I thought that puppies were to be with litter mates ideally until 12 weeks to learn bite inhibition. It is possible she is just playful and testing her boundaries. What I don't get is that if you are really upset about it don't let people touch her. Tell them she is overly excited and nippy and walk on.
  • Koji's momKoji's mom
    Posts: 632
    Don't mean to be a broken record, but if she's 7 weeks old she shouldn't be "walking around the streets"...as everyone has said, she is a 7 week old Shiba puppy and she will bite for a long time, you just have to accept that and not be so surprised or frustrated...

    That is the deal you signed up for in bringing home a 7 week old Shiba...That's what they do!!! Your job is to prevent the situations and teach her - nicely - what is expected of her...and that will take about a year!

    Don't allow her free access to people and DON"T allow children especially free access to touch your puppy! Just politely say she's not good with children yet...she's still learning...

    Puppy classes will help immensely - after couple weeks of that will see a big improvement..(but again, not overnight...)

    Did you read the bite inhibition section in Dunbar book?? that will tell you what to do at home with you and puppy, and just warn people she's a bitey puppy. At this point she probably has zero interest in being pet or cuddled...my dog is two and he allows it sometimes...

    She wants to play and mouth and bite...so bring a bag of her favorite treats and if a child or someone wants to "Pet" her, allow them to give her treats instead (with an OPEN hand, not pinched between ends of fingers so they become part of treat) and just tell them she's too young to be held or pet...

    and for toys what are you stuffing them with??? kibble? not good enough...find out what she loves...wet stinky food? peanut butter? tuna fish??? put whatever the thing is, she HAS to love something...ie, soak kibble in tuna juice and freeze, or smear inside with peanut butter...experiment...

    Why is she out on the streets at 7 week?? She hasn't had her shots so not good..She should be at home, home of friends who have vacinated dogs or in a carry case...it's good to bring her out in the world to see people, but not on dirty streets to pick up parvo or something...
  • The age I've heard to learn bit inhibition is 8-10 weeks with their mother, but otherwise, I agree with ruby. She's biting/mouthing BECAUSE she's excited to see them. It may not feel like it because they have those sharp little needle teeth, but biting from a puppy is often a sign that they like you---they're trying to play! That's how they interacted with their siblings and they're only babies. They don't know that it hurts unless you show them it hurts (via negative punishment). They're like little human babies that pull hair and stick everything in their mouths. They just don't know any better---yet.
  • OK, I understand. But I guess I just read some places to correct them (as in leave the room) everytime they bite, and other places say to let them bite as long as they dont bite hard. So I am just confused as to which to allow. I live in Japan, and I am not sure breeding practices are quite the same here. Every breeder I talked to was offering the puppy at around 7 weeks, and she actually already has had her first set of shots. Nonetheless I really am just taking her out to pee, not to walk, but because I live in Tokyo there are a lot of people and I always run into someone.
  • We allowed soft biting in order to make sure he had good bite inhibition, but really I think that either method works fine. Just pick one and be consistent with it.
  • rubyruby
    Posts: 175
    @pnewelljr I'm assuming this is your 1st shiba. With my 1st I was constantly frustrated and didn't enjoy any of his puppy hood. I couldn't wait til he was a dog. Now he is old. Try to enjoy it and have a good sense of humor. They have such a short life span don't miss out on every moment. Now we have a puppy and she is way worse than my 1st as far as the annoying behaviors (she's way mouthier) but I know it will pass and we just do the best we can. I don't want to miss out on any of it by being annoyed because someday I'll wish she was young again. I know it is easier said than done but just do your best and your puppy will turn out fine.
  • EthosEthos
    Posts: 372
    Most of the bahavioral issues that Akuma had got corrected and he grew out of them. He does't bite anymore, no accidents, no resistance to leash,... 7weeks is still too young. U will start noticing improvements soon if u keep on what u r doing, Guaranteed! By 6 months u will be amazed how more well-behaved and calm they become. they realy do learn and change! Don't give up, this is the toughest period to take care of the puppy.
    Post edited by Ethos at 2012-08-14 15:44:59
  • Thanks so much for the advice guys, and yes, as you can probably tell, this is my first Shiba, although I did grow up with a Siberian Husky as a kid (they have sort of similar personalities). I think I understand everything now. That book just really freaked me out, because it talks about everything as being so urgent! Like if you dont get it right right away and see results, you've failed and you are in for a long, hard, impossible road. At least, thats the way I was reading it
  • Blu_by_uBlu_by_u
    Posts: 42
    Need help also on my Creamy. She is just about 3 months old now.

    Ok, I accept that biting part. So it's "aka aka" and No No on the biting. My creamy do not seem to like cuddling and chin or tummy rubs. She just do not show or enjoy the affections. Unless she is sleepy or just woke up.

    One thing good, is that she never poops in her crate. Only the occasional wetting accidents. That could be partially blame on the over drinking after the last feed. We make it a point to bring her out to ease herself every 3 hours or so. She usually does her poo in the morning at 7.30am then again in the evening. Sometimes before the dinner and sometimes after. So far, no poo in her crate.

    I am having a big headache on her feed. She gets bored of her kibbles pretty fast. When I picked her up from the kennel, she was fed on Regal. She does not finish her feed and would leave about 1/4. She would need some coxing to complete it.

    Changed her feed to Acana for Puppies about 1.5 weeks later and that night, she finished everything. this went on for about 4 days then it was back to the leaving a little behind..need coxing to finish. Yesterday, she just took 1/2 of the feed in the morning, need lots of coxing to complete her dinner and this morning, she just plain refuse to touch her feed.

    Any advice? I am only into about 1/2 bag of the feed. I cannot be changing feed every 1 to 2 weeks.
    Really fast out.
  • How old is Creamy again? 3 hours might be too long to leave her without going to the bathroom. Try taking her out more often.

    As far as the food, our pup seems to have matured into liking kibble but before that we just found a food which had a variety of canned flavors and fed him that in order to keep him interested. He seems to be getting less picky as he ages (knock on wood).
  • RyuDragonRyuDragon
    Posts: 319
    You might want to make sure there isn't some medical issue if her appetite is consistently low. He could also just be picky. You could try buying two or three different flavors of one kind of food and cycle them every week or so.
  • Blu_by_uBlu_by_u
    Posts: 42
    So far it have been 2 plus hours to 3. with the occasional above 3 when we are away at church and at night, the last for the day would be 10.30pm to the next morning (7.30am). So far, it's been ok. She gets lots of play time when my boys get home in the afternoon and when I am back in the evening. Don't trust her being on her own unsupervised as yet.

    Oh yes, she is only 79 days old today.

    Which can/tin variety did you get? We do not have much variety here. Alpo, Pedigree and Hills are not really high on the list with only 1~2 star rating is not what I am keen on for a growing puppy.
    Really fast out.
  • Do you have Merrick there? They have a lot of flavors (21).
  • Blu_by_uBlu_by_u
    Posts: 42
    Will check it out in the next few days. Any other recommendations?

    BTW, I notice a brand called "Inu". There is no write up in the feed adviser. Looks like I have to read the ingredients as I roughly guess what's useless and what's not.
    Really fast out.
  • I know some have also had luck with Fromm and picky pups. No idea how many flavors they have.
  • Blu_by_uBlu_by_u
    Posts: 42
    What do you think of some suggestion that I mix raw food with some not so healthy feed brands? Like Raw chicken or beef those that contain Corn as a filler?
    Really fast out.
  • LosechLosech
    Posts: 2516
    My Shiba can't handle corn (reacts violently to it) and it's generally associated with low-quality food, which I avoid like the plague. While mixing chicken with a low-quality food is better than the low-quality on it's own, I'd rather buy a higher-quality food and get the dog to eat it.
    Conker will finish all his kibble if I mix an egg in with it. If I don't mix an egg in then I have to feed him twice a day when he eats kibble.
  • Blu_by_uBlu_by_u
    Posts: 42
    Just back from the Vet. Creamy had her 2nd Jab.

    Told the doctor of Creamy's eating habits and my suggestion of adding chicken and etc.Did I get a I got a ear full!!!! First question is WHY..if it's because of taste and nothing else, Not good enough a reason. If it's allergic reaction, then ok. He says, we homo sapiens are becoming what we are because of what we eat. Diabetic, Heart problems, cancer and the works..why. We eat unhealthy food. He says that what I am now giving is already on the top of the good list. So unless Creamy is having allergic reactions, don't change.

    Ok..so Creamy will have to eat what she is eating and not for me to change it every 2 weeks because she is fed up of it. So Acana is the only feed she is going to get unless the shop runs out of it.
    Really fast out.
    Post edited by Blu_by_u at 2012-08-15 03:39:13
  • RyuDragonRyuDragon
    Posts: 319
    Since she is still so young it might just take some time for her to adjust to everything. Also as long as she eats the appropriate amount over the course of a whole day then you shouldn't worry. You could try dividing her meals up into 3 or 4 times a day instead of 2(same total amount of food still). Personally Ryu did fine with 2 meals a day since he came home with us at 12wks but every puppy is different.
  • Ok, the biting is starting to hurt. I have tried crying (high pitched), yelling no, and yelling oww, ive even actually pretended to cry. Nothing works, she just keeps biting and biting. Also, if I turn around, she just keep biting and pulling on my clothes. I cant get the message through.
  • That's not uncommon. I have two tips for you.

    1) Stay consistent with what you do when she bites. She's going to have a hard time realizing what it means when you make those sounds if you make a different one each time. I personally prefer "ow" because I feel like it's what my dog is most likely to hear if he gets excited and accidentally hurts someone he's just meeting. I don't want them to have to use some magic word to get him to immediately let go and go into a sit (he's been taught to sit for everything, so it's his default behavior when he wants something and he's trying to ask for it, attention included).

    2) If just turning isn't working, then you need to up the ante on not giving attention. Curling up and refusing to respond at all can be painful since they're still going to bite at you, but you will in no way be rewarding the behavior because you will be completely uninteresting. Moreover, you can then immediately uncurl and give a positive response as soon as they stop biting. The other thing you can do is timeout. Tell her no, or ow, the first time and then try to leave. If she keeps biting and pulling on clothes, then it's "timeout" and you immediately put her in timeout. If she does the same thing when she gets out, then she goes straight back in. If you're crate training her, then DON'T use her crate for timeout as you don't want her to associate it with punishment.
    Post edited by notoriousscrat at 2012-08-16 04:54:37
  • Great! I'll try these and report back!
  • Just remember, Shibas are stubborn, mouthy little things. Even doing everything right she may yet stay bitey for months. Just stay patient and keep at it (the same process every time she bites) and it will get better. At 8 months old, my dog still gets overexcited or really wants to play and bites sometimes (not hard but that's still a no-no). He doesn't have his mouth constantly all over people, though, like he did when we brought him home.
    Post edited by notoriousscrat at 2012-10-12 03:37:40
  • rubyruby
    Posts: 175
    Yes, the biting gets harder. They gain jaw strength and try harder to get a response. The ow! response didn't work for us but I know that it does for a lot of owners. I think with our pup she thought it was an exciting game. We don't have an ex-pen and a room is out of the question because she is destructive with eating baseboards and walls. I don't like to time-out in the crate because I want her to view that as positive and not punishment. We usually just go outside or in another room calmly for a minute or two and time ourselves out so she can see that we don't want to play rough with her.
  • umi-sanumi-san
    Posts: 113
    @pnewelljr,

    Our Suki used to bite a lot when she was a baby, I understand your frustration. The biting continued for several months in our case. But her character changed a lot as she was growing. At the age of a year she became a really nice dog (even if she does not obey every time we give her a command lol) she stopped biting and pulling on the leash when we take a walk. Of course, the process took a lot of patience on our part and we had to read a lot of information to find different ways to train us and her. Shibas are known as dogs difficult to train because their independent character and stubbornness.

    There is no general recipe for everyone, each Shiba is unique. But I think you're on the right track by reading info from this forum. So, be very patient and consistent (this one is really important, being consistent!!!). Ganbatte ne!

    @Blu_by_u,

    Do not worry too much if your dog does not eat. Believe me, she will eat when she is hungry, no matter what you give her. If the vet did not found a physical problem that causes loss of appetite, your Shiba is just being difficult. Sometimes it takes time to adjust to their new home.
    Shibas are not gluttons dogs, we give Suki all day access to her food ration (only the portion that corresponds to one day). She decides when to eat and depending on the day she wont even finish her portion.
  • Koji's momKoji's mom
    Posts: 632
    A word of encouragement about book and biting..

    the book: I felt the same way, Dunbar's advice is really really good and you should follow it, but I felt the same way about the "urgency"...He constantly sounds like if you are not perfect you will end up with a devil dog that will kill someone. Try to not get hung up on that aspect and just follow his advice...

    (I think he does that because there ARE so many badly raised dogs and we do have sooo many dogs in shelters because of behaviour problems...he's trying to scare people into doing the right thing and he may go a bit overboard and overwhelm people...just push forward and try not to worry..

    The advice does work, just doesn't seem like it at first...you will not notice any improvement for awhile...it takes time, but all of a sudden you will be amazed...don't expect biting improvement in days or weeks, it will take months, then you have teething!! You must force yourself to accept it and try to have sense of humour about it..

    Good advice above about biting, BE CONSISTENT, do not give up when things do not change right away - you will get bit - a lot! Shiba puppies bite a lot! IT WILL GET BETTER..

    One thing that helped me a lot, is to have a very short drag lead on the puppy...maybe 12 - 15 inches, no looped handle...( I used a cat leash and cut it to size because very light weight with plastic clip)

    If he's biting you grab hold of lead, hold him away from you so he can not bite until he stops..you be perfectly still, no eye contact, no emotion...it's a sort of time out..

    added benefit of helping him get used to a leash...and for emergencies when need to grab him...can start out with longer lead and shorten it...just keep an eye if it's long enough to get tangled..

  • Koji's momKoji's mom
    Posts: 632
    PS..Just thought of another helpful biting tip...I did a lot of handfeeding...if he bites while eating - withhold the food..

    let him eat when he has a gentle mouth...do this with no emotion shown...it's a neutral action...if he bites, no food...soft careful mouth - gets food...

    also related and very helpful - look up "puppu zen" should be somewhere on the forum or just search online, very good way to teach self control, bite inhibition etc...which will help you alot...

    I still do this occasionally with Koji just to keep his soft, non-biting self that way...
  • Blu_by_uBlu_by_u
    Posts: 42
    That is one of the ways. I got creamy eating out of my hand be it on my palm or off the tips of my fingers. Very gently bites and my hand is never touched. I also play with her food bowl..just to encourage her to eat.

    Yesterday she did something she never did before...she cling on to my daughter's leg like a cat. with her leg and paws.
    Really fast out.

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